Summertime up North is usually a feverish season with the natives being restless. These particular non-natives of various hues (me, Gilles, Eoin, Geraldine and Carole) were indeed restless climbers, not having climbed in the Mournes for over a year; for Ger and Gilles it was the first foray into the world of the famed Mourmes friction.

So off we headed on friday evening in Gilles' substantial Mobile (version deux). The new motorway quickly swept us up north, and soon we had left the car in the Annalong valley carpark and were headed into the bosom of the Mournes. There is a fine area of flat ground at a u-bend in the Annalong river just underneath Lower Cove which makes for an ideal campsite. After just over an hours walk-in we arrived at our designated spot and set up camp. Fortunately there was a nice breeze and so we were midge-free. By now it was near midnight but there was still much brightness in the sky. We sat around and chatted and had some port... from a platypus; platy-port! Eoin had sensibly refused to carry in the bottles of port he had bought and so emptied the contents into one of his platypus's.

Next morning the winds had dropped a bit and the skies were ponderous. The midge had arrived, but were tolerable enough to sit around, make some coffee and have breakfast. However, the heavy skies soon delivered on their promise and we were treated to some drizzle and light rain. We retreated to the tents for some more kip, and eventually got on the go about midday. We headed up to the First Corner area of Lower Cove. There was a nice northerly breeze at this stage which was keeping the midge tolerable. First up Gilles lead the fine First Corner (HS), and Ger a VS (Kram). I also lead Kram, and Eoin lead another VS (Half Corner), which was short and strenous, but well protected. However, the crag was proving to be too good a shelter from the northerly breeze and the midge were becoming increasingly unbearable. Suffering from midge stress I belayed Gilles on Half Corner, as Eoin belayed Carole on a Severe around the corner. Seconding Gilles was one of the most unpleasant climbing experiences of my life as the increasing midge cloud made staying attached to the rock a secondary concern. At one point I simply let go as I had a midge in each ear ! Climbs completed we decided to take refuge at the top of the crag where the breeze restored us to some sanity, and we had some lunch.

It was now nearing 6, and we decided we couldn't continue to climb in the midge cloud, so opted to head over to Annalong Buttress, which we reckoned should be bathed by a sufficient breeze to keep the midge at bay. An hour or so later we had arrived, having been forcefully reminded of the tortuous slog up from the valley floor to the Buttress... but at least we were right, and the midgies were not to be found here. Eoin set off by attempting an E1 at the very right hand edge of the buttress... but it was not to be and he decided discretion was the better part of valour and backed off. Gilles then lead the HVS beside Spanish Flea (sorry, can't remember the name), and I lead Warsaw Convention (VS) -- this latter climb is one of two excellent VS's beside each other, the other being Thin Crack, which Ger subsequently lead. Both are very similar in character and interest is reasonably sustained to the top; well recommended for anyone visiting this crag.

Alas, our midge interrupted day of climbing had come to an end and it was time to head back to our tents. Trekking back along beside the Annalong River I stopped to bathe my head and face, providing some relief to my raw and tender head after a day of midge attack. It felt good... but the worst was yet to come.

Back at the tents we encountered an uncountably infinite number of midge in the dead summer evening air. It was horrendous, with particularly bad concentrations at the tent porches. There was going to be no lingering evening meals outdoors tonight. We sought respite within the tents, but to no avail, as the very act of entering a tent brought its own cloud with it. I lay on the tent floor with my sleeping bag over my head, with my own personalised swarm. Eoin decided something needed to be done, and abandoned the tent to somehow try and create some fire and smoke outside to provide blessed relief. Eoin, now called "Dances with Midges", succeeded to a degree, and Gilles followed his example from within the tent, "burning" some wet grass over a candle to smoke out the tent. A moderately safe haven secured, we stayed in our tents, abandoning all plans for dinner and fell to sleep, exhausted and irritated. We dreaded what morning might bring.

Early morning was still calm, but then we heard that wonderful sound: the tent doors flapping in the wind. Relief !! We could leave the tent. Sunshine and clouds outside with a stiff southerly breeze. Thank Christ ! With relief and joy we brewed some coffee and had breakfast, and off again to Lower Cove for a days climbing. Ger started off with First Corner (HS), and Eoin tackled the excellent Gynocrat (HVS). I then lead Dots Delight (HVS), a meandering romp up the face of First Corner Buttress. The crux is at about 2/3 height moving between two horizontal breaks - actually I found the crux to be finding the crux ! Fortunately I had a patient and excellent belayer in Ger as I sidled back and forth along these horizontal breaks trying to find the path of least resistance. Meanwhile Gilles had tried Wee Mark (HVS) just near Dots Delight. The lower section is a vegetated mess, but the upper corner crack provides some nice climbing and good gear. At any rate, Gilles backed off and Eoin lead through to hail the climb as well worth doing despite the jungle at the lower reaches.

We stopped for a wee break. Carole at this stage had become official photographer, having decided she'd had enough climbing for the day. One more climb we said, and Carole cheered us all by saying she'd head off and make a start on the dinner we should have had the previous night but for the midge. Horay for Carole !! So, I headed for Gynocrat and Gilles took on Dots Delight. Gynocrat takes a fine crack line up the leftmost corner of Second Corner. A really nice climb, well protected, and a nice confidence builder for the likes of me who is only getting comfortable at HVS... definitely gets a "John Recommends" star.

With that it was down to the base of Lower Cove where Carole had established her field kitchen, and a wonderful meal in the summer evening sun, with still just enough breeze to keep the midge at bay. A final coffee and the pots cleaned and we headed away back out to civilisation. Despite the midge terror on saturday afternoon and night, it had been well worth the journey north.

A few more points of note :

(1) The new motorway up to Dundalk really brings the Mournes close to hand. From the Annalong car park to the first traffic lights in Dublin took us 1hr 50 mins. BTW, the toll on cars is 1.50.

(2) Contrary to popular myth, climbing in the Mournes is not a death wish, and many of the climbs are in fact well protected. However, camming devices of all hues are essential; friends, tri-cams, even hex-centrics cam nicely into some of the horizontal breaks. And the friction is possibly the best you'll ever encounter.

(3) Tech-tip of the weekend was how to sling spikes using a slip-knot; see www.chockstone.org/TechTips/SlipKnot.htm

John Mehegen.